Sony Vaio UX50 60 GB HDD Upgrade
ux71 120gb upgrade
okay, just got the samsung 120gb hdd, and upgraded my 60gb drive to it so far seems to be working well, now to test the speed............
model number is samsung HS122JB, Spinpoint N2 series, its actually a bit faster than the 60gb spinpoint N1 series now doom 3 seems much quicker, by the way if anyone is interested ive got a 60 Gb samsung spinpoint N1, its the same size as the OEM 40GB drive- 5mm, and abolishes the heat issue with larger drives. im based in UK, so youll have to add shipping.
ruffnexx wrote:model number is samsung HS122JB, Spinpoint N2 series, its actually a bit faster than the 60gb spinpoint N1 series now doom 3 seems much quicker, by the way if anyone is interested ive got a 60 Gb samsung spinpoint N1, its the same size as the OEM 40GB drive- 5mm, and abolishes the heat issue with larger drives. im based in UK, so youll have to add shipping.
Hi, I am near Leeds,wonder if you are anywhere near. How much?
Toshiba 100GB -MK1011GAH 4200rpm 8MB ZIF N/B Hard - NEW
Theres a cheap 100GB hard for sale on ebay now see this, just found it this morn:)
Toshiba 100GB -MK1011GAH 4200rpm 8MB ZIF N/B Hard - NEW
ATA 100, Zero Insertion Force (ZIF) connector Item number: 220186278266
US $129.99
Toshiba 100GB -MK1011GAH 4200rpm 8MB ZIF N/B Hard - NEW
ATA 100, Zero Insertion Force (ZIF) connector Item number: 220186278266
US $129.99
hd screws ..
So I finally got around to popping my 380 open yesterday .. am I the only one who can't remove the screws holding the hd bracket in place ... I mean ... they wont budge, and I dont want to round them.
Anyone else had this happen ?
Anyone else had this happen ?
iyah wrote:So I finally got around to popping my 380 open yesterday .. am I the only one who can't remove the screws holding the hd bracket in place ... I mean ... they wont budge, and I dont want to round them.
Anyone else had this happen ?
Ok .. needed the proper screwdriver ... PH-0 here in GErmany ... even thought it looks identical to the one I originally tried with
iyah wrote:So I finally got around to popping my 380 open yesterday .. am I the only one who can't remove the screws holding the hd bracket in place ... I mean ... they wont budge, and I dont want to round them.
Anyone else had this happen ?
I just poped my 380 open and put a 60gig drive in but I did get a little worried because the small screws holding the HDD bracket are tight. I used a small screwdriver for eye glases and put a little force down when turning and they came right out. You will get it just use a little pressure down and then one good turn should break them loose.
EVERYONE STATES THAT DRIVE FITS PERFECT BUT I NOTICED THE EXTRA MM THICKNESS IT TOUCHING THE CPU CHIP AND THIS MAY CAUSE THE DRIVE TO HEAT UP EVEN MORE AND THE CHIP TO OVER HEAT SINCE THE LARGER HDD IS LAYING RIGHT ON TOP OF THE BARE NAKED CPU CHIP! ANYONE HAVE ANY ISSUES WITH OVERHEATING YET? SO FAR MINE IS OKAY BUT I AM NOT USEING IT THAT MUCH YET.
ALSO REMEMBER THE LARGER THE DRIVE THE MORE BATTERY IT WILL CONSUME NO MATTER WHAT THEY SAY. THAT IS WHY SONY BUT SMALL DRIVES IN THESE THINGS SO AS TO EXTEND THE BATTERY LONGER OF COURSE. WHAT GOOD WOULD THIS DEVICE BE IF IT HAD A 120GIG DRIVE AND AN HOUR OF BATTERY TIME.

ALL THINGS SONY
Sony UX380 (mini)
Sony CR390N (midi)
Sony AR550 (maxi)
Sony UX380 (mini)
Sony CR390N (midi)
Sony AR550 (maxi)
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- Senior Member
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Okay, I just finished upgrading my UX380N to 100 GB and I wanted to clarify a few things.
First off, in the wiki directions/pictures for the procedure, it's not 100% clear what the "hard drive latch is" or how you "rotate" it to release the hard drive. The picture seems to indicate a sort of counterclockwise motion you have to do on it, which isn't the case. The latch is the little black piece that sits over the wires for the ZIF interface, and you release it by flipping it up and toward the hard drive cable, not rotating it.
Second, while it is true that the 8 mm drives appear substantially thicker than the 5 mm drives, and, as a result, actually make contact with the chip beneath them, that chip is NOT the CPU. It is, in fact, the south bridge chip, as indicated by the part #: NH82801GBM. The south bridge handles the SLOWER components of the system, so one would assume its heat production is substantially lower than that of the CPU. Having said that, heat is still a concern, as the additional space the hard drive occupies presumably reduces the air flow pathway that the fan beneath it needs to cool the system. In addition, though the south bridge may produce less heat than the CPU, it presumably produces some heat that would normally be dissipated in the air that flows over it, which is no longer present with a larger hard drive.
Heat aside, my second concern with the drive resting on the south bridge has to do with shock resistance -- I noticed that the hard drive is surrounded by a lot of rubber padding, which fully supported the original hard drive. The new hard drive, on the other hand, is mostly supported by its contact with the south bridge and the components below it, with the rubber padding just acting like filler around it. That means that in the event of a fall, it's hard drive on chip -- hard piece on hard piece -- which is a definite no-no in hardware design.
To help remedy the south bridge cooling issue and address the contact issue, I've applied a piece of thermal tape to the top of the south bridge. It's enough padding to protect the two components in the event of a fall, while also improving how heat from the south bridge is dissipated into the drive. I know some will argue that the last thing you want to do is transfer more heat to the hard drive, but it's right above the fan and the amount of heat its picking up from the south bridge should be negligible compared to the heat generated by the CPU and surrounding components. Plus, the south bridge handles a lot of essential functionality, and it's generally best not to risk it overheating.
First off, in the wiki directions/pictures for the procedure, it's not 100% clear what the "hard drive latch is" or how you "rotate" it to release the hard drive. The picture seems to indicate a sort of counterclockwise motion you have to do on it, which isn't the case. The latch is the little black piece that sits over the wires for the ZIF interface, and you release it by flipping it up and toward the hard drive cable, not rotating it.
Second, while it is true that the 8 mm drives appear substantially thicker than the 5 mm drives, and, as a result, actually make contact with the chip beneath them, that chip is NOT the CPU. It is, in fact, the south bridge chip, as indicated by the part #: NH82801GBM. The south bridge handles the SLOWER components of the system, so one would assume its heat production is substantially lower than that of the CPU. Having said that, heat is still a concern, as the additional space the hard drive occupies presumably reduces the air flow pathway that the fan beneath it needs to cool the system. In addition, though the south bridge may produce less heat than the CPU, it presumably produces some heat that would normally be dissipated in the air that flows over it, which is no longer present with a larger hard drive.
Heat aside, my second concern with the drive resting on the south bridge has to do with shock resistance -- I noticed that the hard drive is surrounded by a lot of rubber padding, which fully supported the original hard drive. The new hard drive, on the other hand, is mostly supported by its contact with the south bridge and the components below it, with the rubber padding just acting like filler around it. That means that in the event of a fall, it's hard drive on chip -- hard piece on hard piece -- which is a definite no-no in hardware design.
To help remedy the south bridge cooling issue and address the contact issue, I've applied a piece of thermal tape to the top of the south bridge. It's enough padding to protect the two components in the event of a fall, while also improving how heat from the south bridge is dissipated into the drive. I know some will argue that the last thing you want to do is transfer more heat to the hard drive, but it's right above the fan and the amount of heat its picking up from the south bridge should be negligible compared to the heat generated by the CPU and surrounding components. Plus, the south bridge handles a lot of essential functionality, and it's generally best not to risk it overheating.
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